|Front-seat floor of pickup gets soaked when it rains|
By Paul Brand/ Motoring Q & A
Sunday, December 9, 2012
I own a 1997 Dodge 3500 pickup I bought used about 10 years ago, and this problem came with the truck. When it rains, water gets inside. It accumulates in the carpet in front of the front seats. In the past I have had the windshield replaced and sealed and sealed the roof-mounted amber lights — to no avail. A while back I took an awl and punched some holes in the floor on each side so the water will drain out. Although I’ve tried to dry the carpet, the bare metal under the dash is starting to rust and I’m fearful some of the electrical components will corrode. If I cover the cab from the rear of the doors to the middle of the hood, the water does not come in. What are the different possibilities I should investigate?
( -— @bostonherald.com )
If it’s not the windshield, the most common source of water collecting on the front floors is a plugged drain for the HVAC evaporator housing. Rainwater enters from the fresh air vents at the base of the windshield and should drain out at the firewall behind the right front wheel. Punching holes in the steel floor probably wasn’t a good idea because it created openings in the painted surface allowing that evil rust to start. As far as drying out carpets, the biggest issue is the carpet padding, which can’t be completely dried out and should be replaced.
Check for a blockage in the condensate drain tube, which allows water to drain from the evaporator housing. Access is typically from underneath the vehicle at the firewall, so take all necessary safety precautions and use a flexible piece of small-diameter wire or cable to gently probe and clear the drain tube.
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My ’99 Porsche Boxster was in storage for over one month and now the battery is dead. To open the front hood to access the battery, local dealers suggested jumping the C3 fuse in the fuse box with a spare battery. I connected the positive to both terminals on the fuse and the negative to the door frame as suggested — but no luck. The dash lights came up faintly once the fuse was jumped but the hood release did not work. Help!
I looked up Porsche’s emergency unlocking instructions in my Alldata database and find that you were on the right track by connecting battery voltage to both terminals of the C3 fuse. But there’s one more step in the instructions. With the driver door open and the jumper connected, use the key to lock and unlock the door! Once this is done, the hood release should work.
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We have a 2004 Chrysler 300M that has an intermittent problem with the background lights on the instrument panel. Sometimes the background lights for the speedometer and tachometer gauge will not come on in any position of the light switch. The background lights for the gas gauge, radiator temperature and clock always work. Of course, the dealership says it can’t fix the problem unless the lights are not working when the car is there. What can I do?
Ask the dealer to check service bulletin #08-022-03, which identifies intermittent outages or changes in dash illumination and suggests rather than replacing the headlight switch, access the switch harness and unplug and plug it in three times to clean the contacts, then apply dielectric grease to the terminals.
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Regarding the loss of power steering on a 2003 Suburban, thanks to Rick Brandt for this tip: “I have experienced these power steering ‘come and go’ problems before on high mileage GM vehicles. I have found a simple cleaning of the reluctor rings on the variable effort steering switch (VES) can solve the problem. The switch is on the steering shaft, either just inside the firewall or outside.”
Paul Brand, author of “How to Repair Your Car,” is an automotive troubleshooter, driving instructor and former race-car driver. Readers may write to him at: Star Tribune, 425 Portland Ave. S., Minneapolis, Minn. 55488 or via email at email@example.com.